Our extended Christmas weekend in Iceland commenced at the Lava car rental company at Keflavik Airport. Given the lack of daylight in late December, with sunrise at 11:00 am and sunset around 15:40, our strategy was to grab our car at eleven and hit the road immediately. The plan was to embark on the Golden Circle for the initial two days and reserve the third for exploring Reykjavik. Although the car rental agency was a bit distant from the terminal, they provided a shuttle service to their office.
Everything seemed to be off to a smooth start. Our plane was punctual, and the shuttle driver picked us up promptly. While there was a brief wait in line for the car, it was nothing out of the ordinary. We received our Suzuki Vitara, nearly brand new with only a few kilometers on it. Everything appeared perfect as we set out on the road. However, once we reached speeds exceeding 80 km/h on the main road, the car started shaking, and warning lights flashed. I felt a twinge of frustration as I was keen on making the most of the limited daylight, but we had to turn back and exchange the car.
Once back at the car rental agency, it took a while to secure a new car, but eventually, we were back on the road. However, to our dismay, the same shaking occurred again. Frustration mounting, we returned to the agency, only to receive the worst possible news – we needed to wait for a mechanic to inspect the car. We waited and waited, my annoyance growing with each passing moment. Multiple requests for a new car were met with indifference. Finally, at 13:30, we were handed the keys, and the mechanic casually mentioned that we should clear the snow under the tires. An unexpected task, as we expected a clean car upon receiving it from the agency. By this point, I was thoroughly annoyed, but as we drove away, the shaking ceased. We were behind schedule for our adventure, so we hurriedly stopped at a supermarket for supplies before heading straight to Kerið Crater, 108 km away, about an hour and a half drive.
Kerið Crater is believed to have been formed by an explosive eruption. Parking at the crater was free, but there was a 3 EUR entry fee to see the crater. Surprisingly, card payments were accepted. The crater, typically filled with emerald-green water, appeared dark in winter. Though one would usually spend about an hour exploring the crater, the extreme cold and wind cut our visit short and we stayed there only for a few minutes. Afterward, we drove 26 km, approximately 25 minutes, to our accommodation at Brekkugerdi Guesthouse, hoping for a chance to hunt for the Northern Lights. Unfortunately, greenhouse pollution in the area dimmed our chances. The guesthouse was pleasant, with a clean room and a kind owner. As it was already dark upon check-in, sightseeing for the day concluded. We decided to alter our plans and drove to the Secret Lagoon.
The Secret Lagoon, Iceland’s oldest swimming pool dating back to 1891, surrounded by smaller, hot, steaming pools, looked magical in the evening. Though not as fancy as Sky Lagoon, its charm was undeniable. After a relaxing bath, hunger struck. With everything around the lagoon closed, we turned to Google Maps and stumbled upon the surprise of the evening – Minilik, an Ethiopian restaurant in Iceland. The charming restaurant welcomed us warmly, and the menu had a wide choice of dishes at fair prices. The owner guided us through the choices, offering instructions on how to combine flavors and eat the food correctly. The food was an incredible, delicious explosion of tastes. For me, this restaurant became the highlight of the day, and if I ever find myself in Iceland again, I will undoubtedly return.
After our meal, we engaged in conversation with the owner about the Northern Lights. He even stepped outside with us, attempting to use his experienced eye to spot them. Unfortunately, luck eluded us. He shared a few tips as we headed back to the guesthouse, and although I gazed hopefully at the sky, there was no sign of the elusive Northern Lights.
In the morning it was dark, and it was really hard to get out of bed. Our brains did not believe, that it was already morning. Our plan for the day was to savor a hearty breakfast before embarking on our journey in the dark towards the day’s first point of interest, reaching it in the daylight. The breakfast spread was delightful, featuring various dishes common to Iceland. The owner took pleasure in introducing us to the authentic Icelandic breakfast, providing explanations for each dish.
With satisfied bellies, we set out on a 30-minute drive from our guesthouse to Strokkur, one of the most visited geysers in Iceland. Known for its activity, Strokkur can shoot water up to 40 meters, but the average is 20 m, every 6 to 10 minutes. I recommend allocating about an hour for this spot and arriving early to avoid crowds. There was no admission fee and the geyser is close to the parking spot, so no hiking is needed.
Our next destination was the Gullfoss Waterfall, a 10-minute drive away. Parking was free, and there was no admission fee. The air was cold and it was windy. Despite the challenging viewing conditions due to the snow-covered landscape, we made our way to the viewpoint. We were struggling to see, because of the intense whiteness. Up the stairs was the Panorama restaurant, where we warmed ourselves with a bowl of soup.
Concerned about the weather’s impact on our next stop, we reached Þingvellir, a National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site, about a 50-minute drive away. Parking costs around 7 EUR and it is payable by card. Surprisingly, the park wasn’t as bitterly cold, and the wind had subsided. Covered in snow, it was a winter wonderland. Our hike started at the visitor center, and numerous well-marked trails made it manageable to explore in one afternoon. Þingvellir offers the unique experience of walking between the North American and European tectonic plates. For the daring, a dive into the frigid waters of Silfra allows you to touch two continents at once. We skipped the dive this time due to the lack of the necessary wetsuit certification, though we couldn’t help but feel a bit of regret as a group of divers crossed our path.
After an incredible afternoon in the National Park, we made our way to Reykjavik, a 50-minute drive, and checked into Fron Hotel. The hotel was clean and centrally located. Finding street parking on Christmas Eve proved a bit challenging, but we managed. After checking in, we embarked on an evening sightseeing tour of Reykjavik. The illuminated church was a magnificent sight. Hoping to secure a table in a restaurant, our lack of reservations meant everything was fully booked. We settled for some street food and, after devouring it, found solace in a cozy bar, wrapping up the night there.”